The new year at Lahaul !

Shabashe Shabashe Shabashe (Well done, Well done, Well done)

Shabashe is repeated countless times when Lahaul people are drunk to the core and dance to the flute and drums all night long over festivities. Back last year on 31st December, I was all alone in this cold desert while remembering my days at Palampur where I would head out to my favorite dining place and celebrate this last day of year like everyone else. It wasn't the first time I was alone on 31st but this time on a very different land. The snow wall all around, i was tucked up in my bed with two heaters. When clock struck 7.30 in the evening, I received a call from a localite who worked as Ayurvedic Medical Officer. He called me to join over community celebration of new year at a panchayat bhawan of a place named Shansha. I got reminded of Panchayat show in Amazon prime.

I was in no mood to step out with temperature dropping down below minus 10 that evening, however the solitary confinement in my old government residence pushed me to the outdoors in an anticipated move of watching a new culture in freezing cold temperature. The road was all icy and wasn't possible to drive to the next village where celebrations were to be held, so I chose to walk on snow with my cheap 600 bucks shoes which apparently protect you from slipping down the gorge. I walked a kilometer and was welcomed by a man named Dr. Mahesh. He took me to a long hall where all men sat on floor with a small wooden table called Soltak in front of them. I kinda liked the setup until I noticed them pour liquor in almost 50 glasses one by one. A tandoor was setup in the middle of the hall with wood all piled up to keep us all warm up till morning apart from the alcohol.

The whistle of the giant pressure cooker made whole hall smell like chevon, the goat meat. The celebrations were on at 8 pm in the evening. Everyone sat, drank and sang local songs along with the amalgamation of few Bollywood songs perfectly blended with the tunes of local folklore or vice versa.

These people surely have a thing with alcohol and mountain dew, I spoke to myself. In every festivity you would see a pile of mountain dew bottles all stocked for whole function along with alcohol bottles. Mountain dew is for those who don't drink alcohol. So I chose a table where few kids were sitting and sipping on to the soft drink along with aloo bhujia. By 10 pm, everyone was almost....almost drunk when they started beating the drum and someone started playing songs on flute. Few people rose from their seats and made a circle around the pressure cooker on tandoor and started dancing to the tune of alcohol.

I had spent only 3 months up till now in this land, so I could barely understand locals singing and talking to each other.

Tandoor was not the only thing to keep you warm. I stepped outside for a while, slipped on snow and took a walk. There was a huge bonfire right in the middle of the road where people who got bored inside came and gossiped which I never understood.

I went inside because no matter what you are wearing, the cold winds will surely pierce your bones. I tapped at wooden table for few times, relishing the aloo bhujia and local tunes.

A guy with a smiling face, black mustache and plump cheeks pulled me up and asked me to dance along. I hesitated at first and later danced to nearly half and hour until it was a new year time.

I wasn't in mood to stay dancing or drinking cola up till 4 in the morning, so I sat in a corner where food was being served. I ate chicken rice and greeted everyone before leaving. I again walked the same snowy road, mountains glistening with moonlight. Gratitude !

A new year eve in a new place with new faces and dialect was refreshing. I soon slipped into my bed with 2 layers of blanket underneath, 3 layers of cloth on my body, quilt and a blanket, cap to cover my head. I dozed of while thinking about what more life has to offer in coming years. I was happy...happy after a long long time !

Shabashe Shabashe Shabashe!